• President Mauro Bergozza: “Deep crisis but Made in Italy can become a protagonist again with vision, supply chain and targeted investments”.
• The current contraction involves both the domestic market - penalised by the slowdown in investments in the fashion supply chain - and exports.
• Despite the difficulties, Italy confirms its leadership in the segments with the highest technological value, maintaining a 30% share of world exports in the sector by 2024.

Bergamo, 20 June 2025
Quality, skills, technology. It is on these pillars that the Italian footwear, leather goods and tannery machinery sector is called upon to build its relaunch. The occasion to take stock was the General Assembly of Assomac, hosted today at the Kilometro Rosso Innovation District in Bergamo, from which a certainly complex picture emerged: according to the 2024 preliminary results, the sector has recorded a 12% drop in turnover, with an estimated closure of around 575 million euros.

This is a significant contraction, which involves both the domestic market - penalised by the slowdown in investments in the fashion supply chain - and exports, in a global context characterised by geopolitical instability, inflation, shrinking consumption and tightening trade barriers. “Our sector is going through a phase of deep, but not irreversible suffering - said Mauro Bergozza, President of Assomac - The quality of our technologies, the solidity of Italian know-how, and the innovative drive that distinguishes us must once again become a driver of competitiveness. To achieve this, we need investments in digitisation, automation, sustainability and above all a shared vision between companies, institutions and the education and research system. We must be ready to play a system game, otherwise we will remain on the sidelines of the global market."

Despite the difficulties, Italy is confirmed as the technological leader in the high-end segment at international level, maintaining a 30% share of world exports in the sector in 2024. In particular, it holds 52% of the global export of tannery machinery and 35% of that of leather goods machinery. More penalised is the footwear segment, which stands at 12%, in a competitive context dominated by the growing Chinese presence: Beijing has strengthened its industrial role in the Asian region.

The Assembly was also a moment of wide-ranging discussion on the future trajectories of the supply chain. Under the title “Growth, Collaboration and Innovation for the European Fashion Industry”, the event was attended by institutional and academic speakers, including Maurizio Tarquini, Director General of Confindustria, Maurizio Forte, Managing Director Export Promotion Department of Italian Trade Agency, and Giuliano Noci, Professor of Strategy and Marketing at the Milan Polytechnic.

At the heart of the debate: the need to ensure technological neutrality in order to preserve and valorise medium technology, a key element to give continuity to the sustainable transition of European fashion; the strengthening of synergies between companies and institutions; and the urgency of joint action at European level to defend and relaunch the manufacturing identity of our continent.

Among the priorities that emerged: greater access to subsidised finance tools - starting with the funds provided by Industry 5.0 - support for exports in key markets such as Africa, India, South-East Asia and South America, investment in technical training and acceleration of digital innovation processes. The competitiveness game, it was emphasised, cannot be played alone: it is necessary to network between players in the supply chain, the fashion system, research bodies and associations, to create a solid industrial ecosystem, with a unified voice in Europe.

“Aggregating to compete is no longer an option, but a necessity - President Bergozza concluded - We have to build a system in which companies are supported not only in terms of technology, but also in terms of infrastructure, industrial policies and international relations. Italy can and must become a protagonist again, but to do so we need cohesion, investment and a long-term vision. The time to act is now”.

In an economic and geopolitical context characterized by increasing complexity and instability, the Italian technology industry for the footwear, leather goods and tanning sectors is called upon to strengthen its competitiveness through innovative industrial strategies, cooperation between companies and authoritative representation at European level.

The meeting will be an opportunity for discussion between institutional representatives, entrepreneurs, stakeholders and the academic world, with the aim of outlining a shared vision for the future of the sector.

ASSOMAC Around the World: Italian technological excellence goes round the world

• The ‘Assomac Around the World’ programme to support Italian companies in the leather, footwear and leather goods sector, also implemented through promotional activities managed in conjunction with the ITA Agency, is back on track.

• Through its collaboration with the Agency, Assomac supports companies in the sector, facilitating their participation in the most important international fairs, from the IILF in India to the APLF in Hong Kong and the Mega Leather Show in Pakistan.

• India emerges as a strategic market, with a 17 billion euros leather sector and Italian machinery exports growing by 42.15%, while in Hong Kong, Italy confirms its leadership in the supply of components for tanning machinery and in Pakistan the Mega Leather Show offers new opportunities in a rapidly evolving $874 million market.

Vigevano, 25 February 2025

Assomac renews its commitment to promoting Italian leather, footwear and leather goods processing technology on international markets through the ‘Assomac Around the World’ programme. The initiative, dedicated to strengthening the internationalisation process of companies in the sector, joins the promotional strategy and activities implemented by the ITA Agency, communicating the value of the Italian sector in the main world markets. In the first half of 2025, the Confindustria association will be present at the most important trade fairs, offering member companies the opportunity to present their technologies and develop new collaborations

After the first appointment at the India International Leather Fair (IILF) in Chennai, held from 1 to 3 February, the tour continues today in Milan, where Lineapelle, a reference event for the global leather and fashion industry, is being held until 27 February. In March it will then be the turn of the APLF in Hong Kong (12-14 March), followed by the Mega Leather Show in Pakistan (11-13 April).

India: a growing strategic market

The presence in Chennai represented an important opportunity for Italian companies in the sector to present their technological solutions to a rapidly expanding market. India is now one of the main players in the global leather industry, with a GDP expected to increase by 6.5% in 2025.

India's leather and finished goods sector was worth 17 billion euros in 2024, with forecasts of growth to 45 billion euros by 2030. The country is among the world's leading producers, with an annual output of around 1 billion square metres of leather, which accounts for 10% of global production. India is also the world's second largest producer of footwear and leather goods, as well as the fifth largest exporter of leather goods and the third largest exporter of saddle goods.

On the machinery export front, Italy remains a strategic partner for India. In the first ten months of 2024, our country was the second supplier after China of leather processing technology, with an export value of 14.62 million euros and a market share of 20.8% (2023 figure). This figure marks a significant growth of 42.15% over the same period last year, confirming the central role of Italian technology in the modernisation process of Indian industry.

Hong Kong: a strategic business hub for the industry

After Lineapelle, the tour will continue to APLF Hong Kong (12-14 March), one of the most important trade fairs for the footwear and leather goods industry in Asia. Hong Kong, which has always been a crossroads of international trade, represents a privileged gateway to Asian markets, particularly for mainland China and South-East Asia. As the 2024 data show, here Italy confirms its leadership in the sector, supplying alone about 80% of the machinery components (excluding sewing machines) imported for the tanning of leather, hide and fur or for the production and repair of articles in these materials, for a total value of USD 1,828,000.

Italy also dominates in the segment of machinery for the preparation or processing of leather, hide or fur, or for the manufacture or repair of leather goods, with exports on this market rising from 42.19% in 2022 to 77.46% in 2024. Footwear manufacturing or repair machinery also performed well (38.32% market share), although slightly down on the previous year. Italy therefore remains among the main exporters of machinery for the sector, making the participation of Italian companies at APLF Hong Kong a strategic opportunity to consolidate their presence in the Asian market.

Pakistan: a potential yet to be explored

In April, Assomac and the ICE Agency will be present at the Mega Leather Show in Pakistan, a landmark event for the local leather industry, which represents the country's second largest export sector after textiles, with an annual value of USD 874 million. The sector is mainly divided into four segments: leather clothing, gloves, footwear and leather goods, with exports of leather gloves accounting for a significant share of the total.

The Pakistani leather industry currently has about 800 companies, with 213 tanneries registered with the industry's umbrella association. The industry contributes around 4% to the national GDP, and is considered a key sector for the country's economic growth.

Despite Pakistan's well-established role in the global leather market, the sector still has wide margins for development, especially in terms of technological innovation and sustainability. Currently, Pakistani tanning technology is considered among the most advanced in South-East Asia, with quality standards second only to those in Italy. However, the need to modernise production facilities and improve process efficiency makes the local market particularly interesting for Italian machinery suppliers.

A look into the future: focus on Africa and major international events

In addition to the trade fairs in the first six months of the year, Assomac continues its work on an institutional and international level. The association is actively involved in the UITIC International Congress of Footwear Technicians, which will be held in Shanghai from 31 August to 3 September, in collaboration with its Chinese colleagues from the CLIA association. The event, entitled ‘Footwear Industry Competitiveness and Sustainability in the Era of Artificial Intelligence’, will be an opportunity to discuss the challenges and opportunities of the sector in the era of artificial intelligence.

At the same time, Assomac has multiplied its commitment to the African market, a rapidly expanding market which, if harnessed, will soon become strategic for the growth of Italian companies. The aim is to develop new business opportunities, consolidate the presence of Italian technology in North Africa, and contribute to the development of the sector through projects and technological support in the centre and south of the continent.

‘Assomac around the world’ is not only a tool to promote Made in Italy technology, but a digital and trade fair platform to announce at the most important international trade fairs ’Be Smart! From Skills to Factory’, the new edition of Simac Tanning Tech, from 23 to 25 September at Fiera Milano Rho.

UITIC 2025 World Congress Announces Call for Papers

Vigevano, 18th February 2025 – The International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians (UITIC) is pleased to announce the call for papers for its 22nd World Congress, to be held in Shanghai, China, from August 31st to September 3rd, 2025.

The UITIC World Congress is the premier global event for footwear industry professionals, bringing together experts from around the world to discuss the latest trends, technologies, and challenges facing the industry. The 2025 congress will focus on the theme of "Competitiveness and Sustainability in the Era of Artificial Intelligence."

We invite researchers, academics, and industry professionals to submit original papers on a wide range of topics related to footwear manufacturing, technology, and sustainability. The deadline for abstract submission is April 11th, 2025.

All abstracts must be submitted online no later than 11 th April 2025, through an easy access system which has been set up to submit presentations on:

https://uitic.org/22nd-congress-abstract-submission/

Key Dates:

• Abstract Submission: From 14th February to 11 thApril

• Notification of Acceptance or Rejection: Until 9 th May

• Presentation or Poster submission: Until 1st August

• Congress Dates: August 31st - September 3rd

Sergio Dulio, President of UITIC, declared: “The future of footwear lies at the intersection of AI-driven innovation and sustainable practices. This conference will explore how companies can leverage both to thrive in a rapidly evolving market and shape a more sustainable future for the industry”.

For more information about the UITIC 2025 International Congress, including submission guidelines and registration details, please visit the Congress website: https://www.uitic2025.com/ and the official website: https://uitic.org/

UITIC https://www.uitic.org/ The International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians (UITIC), established in 1972, is an organization which aims at developing technical knowledge in the footwear industry, in particular by organizing international conferences on a regular basis and by taking the initiative in setting up information exchanges between its members, mainly in the field of technology. UITIC’s main activity is to organize the most prestigious meeting of experts in the world, the "UITIC International Footwear Congress". This event tackles the latest technical problems or innovation in the footwear industry. Visits of footwear factories and related industries are organized before the Congress. UITIC’s members are footwear experts, research centres, private companies and technicians from footwear associations, coming from 27 countries.

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