Partner News 18
Italian Footwear Companies To Show At London's Pure Show No 616 |
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Industry trends in the second half of 2008 were not immune to strongly negative macro-economic climate, whose effects are quickly making themselves felt on the real economy, influencing the spending decisions of families and businesses. Another problem for the footwear industry is that this crisis is playing out in a time of lingering poor performance which businesses have been compelled to face with significant sacrifice in recent years. The gradual advancement toward a rebalance of the main economic variables that had distinguished 2007 and the first two months of 2008 has experienced a sudden but considerable reversal of the trends. In this recessive environment, in which companies are being asked to redouble their efforts to maintain their competitive edge on the markets, short-term prospects can hardly be marked with any sense of optimism. The competitive landscape will become more selective, and the number of viable companies will be pared down further. The results of the survey conducted by ANCI show how footwear production in the first 9 months of 2008 (limited to the sample of Association members interviewed) has fallen significantly in quantities (-6.1%), demonstrating a net worsening in the third quarter: the previous figures, relating to the first half of 2008, reported a smaller decrease (-3.4%). Combining these indicators with the small price increases in light of the context, +1.6% on the domestic market and +2.7% on the foreign markets, has led to falling production values estimates of -3.9% with respect to January/September 2007. Only 18% of operators interviewed have reported an increase in output volumes versus previous years; 22% marked essential stability; 60% of interviewees noted a decrease in quantities, which in 42% of the cases was greater than 5%.
A.N.C.I. Servizi S.r.l. - 20149 Milano, via Monte Rosa 21 - Tel. 02/43829.1 - Fax 02/48005833 info@anci-calzature.com Reg. Imprese N.229059-Trib.Milano–R.E.A. N.1147818 - Cap.Soc. 10,400 Euro i.v. - C.F./P.Iva 07199040150
These responses describe the current economic situation in the footwear industry whose effects tend to expand beyond the confines of the markets and the product categories. In this regard, it is significant that, when questioned on which markets they considered less exposed to the effects of the crisis, seven business people out of ten sampled responded "none in particular". Official ISTAT commercial trade data available for the first eight months of 2008 confirm the picture illustrated up to this point. The international economic crisis has decreased the outlets for Italian-made products. Cumulative export figures reported a decrease of 8.2% in quantities, despite the increase in value (3.5%) pursuant to significant growth in average prices (+12.7%). In the three months of summer in particular, the decrease in foreign sales equalled 12% in volume. From January to August, we exported 163.9 million pairs of shoes (14.6 million fewer than the same period of the previous year), for a total value of 5 billion euro. The contraction affected all product segments, except for synthetic footwear (which posted a 1.8% increase in quantities and 10.6% in value). Leather footwear (-10.2% in volumes and +3.4% in value), the most representative of Italian production, has reported increases in quantities for safety shoes (+6.4%) and walking shoes for children (+7.4%), while minus signs have characterized exports of sandals (-24%), women's and men's walking shoes (-7.5%) which however reported appreciable increases in value (+6% and +3.5%, respectively) and boots and ankle boots (-7.6% overall, in spite of the stable sales of women’s boots and ankle boots). The
breakdown by geographical area paints a portrait of contrasts: considerable
decreases in volumes (paired with smaller decreases in value) were reported
in the key industrialized countries which have experienced a depressive
climate of consumption in general: Germany Favourable trends have characterized sales in Spain and Switzerland (+12% in volumes for both), Greece (+10%) and in Eastern European and the former U.S.S.R. countries, driven forward by Russia (+11.7% in quantities and +27.3% in value), confirming it as Italy’s fourth largest export market by value. Imports, influenced by the decrease in domestic demand, show regression in terms of sales volumes (-10.2%). However, thanks to a significant increase in average prices (+10.8%), the decrease tends to be offset in overall values (-0.5%). On the whole, in the first 8 months of 2008, 268.2 million pairs entered Italy (more than 30 million pairs fewer than last year) – including also semi-finished products processed abroad and re-imported – for a total value of 2.3 billion euro; 93.6 million pairs (-2.6%) were shoes with leather uppers. The only type of shoes to register an increase (+35%) were shoes with rubber uppers. In relation to the area of provenance, shoes from the Far East showed a reversal of the trends, reporting a decrease of 12.5% in quantities after years of constant increases. China (-17% in volumes, equal to 29 million fewer pairs), followed at a distance by Vietnam (+13.5%) led the ranking of key production countries. It is interesting to note how commercial trade shows an evolution that is identical in exports and imports: considerable decreases in quantities, significant increases in average trade values, and stability in value. This dynamic has held better in higher-end, more expensive products, while it suggests how the crisis in demand is borne largely by the medium- to low-end market segments. The positive trade balance in the sector in January/August has touched 2.7 billion euro, with a very encouraging +7.1%. Yet again, and despite the difficult international landscape, the footwear industry has made a considerable contribution to the Italian trade balance, confirming the growth trends in 2007. The order book between September and November 2008 of the businesses sampled was also negatively affected (-2.7% in quantities). After factoring out reorders, it is quite probable that the total will be even lower. The domestic market has shown a moderate decrease in orders (-1%), while negative signs were reported on the key international markets, from Germany (-6.8%) to the United States (-5.7%). There was little optimism coming from the EU countries as a whole, where orders were down by 2.1%, and orders from Japan were even harder hit (-9.4%). The downturn in Russia was significant (-4%), which shows some dark clouds for the most promising market in recent years. The only positive note, even if residual, involves the order book relating to the other global markets (+4.5%). With reference to domestic consumption, the figures show a considerable contraction in Italian household spending in the first 8 months of the year (-3.7% in quantities and -4.2% in value). Only leisure and sports footwear, while also reporting a decrease in value, have shown positive signs in quantities (+0.8%). Classic shoes, for both men and women, reported considerable decreases. The indicators concerning the labour factor align with the general picture. Use of unemployment benefits in the leather industry sectors (tanning and footwear and components and leather) is significantly higher (+30% on average), reporting an increase in the recourse to ordinary (+26%) and extraordinary (+34%) means. The region of Puglia (with Lecce and Bari, increasing 48% and 25% respectively) leads the rest of Italy in unemployment hours paid (1.7 million, +43%), while the Veneto (+121%) and Marche (+95%) are the shoe manufacturing regions with the largest percentage increases (with Treviso +1,571%, Verona +132% and Ascoli Piceno/Fermo +405% hardest hit). An equally unfavourable trend distinguishes the business opening and closing rate, with a net balance between new companies and companies closing their doors equal to -2.4% versus the final figures in 2007. The number of companies registered has decreased in 9 months by 713 units, currently standing at 28,390. In short, this brief report succinctly describes a negative and difficult to manage economic landscape for footwear companies, with a depressed demand quotient (domestic and the traditional international markets), a recessionary pattern in production volumes, and restrictive price policies. Unfortunately, the figures on the order book show little room for optimism in the short term: quite the opposite. The figures in this brief report, which stop at the end of September, are really only slightly affected by the macro-economic crisis currently underway and, therefore, probably underestimate the real effects of the downturn that the footwear sector, on par with the other manufacturing segments, is experiencing. There is an increased sense of worry among business people who are experiencing difficulty accessing financing in the tightened credit market: 51.6% of the sample report that they have already noticed a worsening in their access to credit. Very complex challenges await companies in the near future, including (a) standing firm against the negative trend that will continue to distinguish the markets for some time; (b) consolidating the competitiveness of their offer in a depressed demand scenario, and (c) attempting to be flexible and innovative in the choice of products and markets in a context of likely reduction of volumes. Investing in skills and product and process innovation is, even more in these severe times, the only direction to pursue, while decidedly burdensome in the short term, in view of the context.
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| Anci 22.01.09 | |||||
588 |
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22.01.09 |
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Eppure la consueta indagine congiunturale elaborata dall’Ufficio Studi di ANCI, l’Associazione Nazionale Calzaturifici Italiani, non rileva una situazione totalmente compromessa, anche se sicuramente c’è un peggioramento del contesto economico rispetto ai primi mesi dell'anno e soprattutto ai discreti risultati del 2007, ma il settore non è ancora di fronte ad una crisi generalizzata. "La nostra situazione è preoccupante come quella di tutti gli altri settori manifatturieri – commenta il presidente di ANCI, Vito Artioli. Anzi, per il calzaturiero c'è l'aggravante che questa crisi si innesta su un periodo non breve di sofferenza congiunturale, che le aziende hanno dovuto gestire con pesanti sacrifici negli anni recenti. Però oggi siamo di fronte a qualcosa di diverso: non solo una crisi di competitività dei nostri prodotti generata dai vantaggi artificiosi di costo e condizioni produttive di cui godono i paesi asiatici, ma una crisi economica generalizzata che si farà sentire per tutti. In questo contesto sono sicuro che le nostre imprese sapranno fare meglio di altre, a parità di condizioni, anche perché hanno già dovuto fronteggiare momenti difficili." L'indagine di ANCI quindi, pur evidenziando un peggioramento della congiuntura mostra un andamento a macchia di leopardo, che si differenzia per segmenti di prezzo, per distretti e per mercati di sbocco. La produzione calzaturiera nei primi 9 mesi del 2008, per il campione di aziende intervistato, si è ridotta in misura significativa nei volumi (-6,1%), mostrando nel terzo trimestre un netto peggioramento: la rilevazione precedente, relativa al primo semestre, aveva infatti segnalato un calo del 3,4%. Il primo dato significativo, tuttavia, è che di fronte ad un tale dinamica, e ad un tasso di inflazione molto contenuto, i prezzi siano comunque cresciuti dell'1,6% sul mercato interno e del 2,7% su quello estero, portando la contrazione della produzione misurata in valore al 3,9%. Tra gli operatori intervistati, il 60% dei rispondenti ha invece rilevato una flessione delle quantità, ma a questi si contrappongono il 18% degli operatori interpellati, che ha indicato un incremento dei volumi di output sullo stesso periodo dell'anno precedente, e il 22%, che registra una sostanziale stabilità. Lo stesso rapporto (60% contro 40%) tra pessimisti e ottimisti si ripropone sulle previsioni per il 1° semestre 2009: aumentano le aziende che prefigurano stabilità e diminuiscono quelle che indicano un aumento, ma il saldo tra ottimisti e pessimisti rimane invariato. "Come avevamo già previsto ad inizio anno – sottolinea il presidente Artioli - siamo in una situazione in cui il fattore produttivo più scarso è proprio la fiducia. Manca la fiducia negli operatori così come tra i consumatori. Siamo quindi di fronte ad un momento in cui è difficile sbilanciarsi a fare previsioni e prospettare ottimismo. Però, oggi, il settore è più forte di qualche anno fa e i buoni risultati ottenuti in alcuni mercati ne sono il segnale. Dobbiamo quindi concentrarci sul nostro business perché questo momento porta difficoltà, ma apre anche nuove opportunità". I dati ufficiali Istat di interscambio commerciale, disponibili per i primi 8 mesi 2008, confermano un quadro preoccupante ed in peggioramento, ma anche uno scenario complesso da leggere ed interpretare. Le esportazioni attestano il momento non positivo ma il dato in valore nei primi otto mesi dell'anno, in cui ancora non sono pienamente incorporati i morsi della crisi, rimane positivo con una crescita del 3,5% per un totale di circa 5 miliardi di euro. La crescita delle esportazioni in valore è stata sostenuta da un aumento del prezzo medio del 12,7%, controbilanciando la flessione dei volumi esportati che è stata particolarmente significativa (-8,2%) per un totale di 163,9 milioni di paia (14,6 milioni in meno rispetto all’analogo periodo dell’anno precedente). "Se in un momento così difficile aumentano i prezzi medi di esportazione significa che il prodotto di medio e alto livello sta avendo una migliore performance del prodotto di segmento più basso – afferma Vito Artioli. Le imprese italiane stanno continuando a rimodulare la propria offerta e questa scelta si sta rivelando premiante. Per questo ritengo che, nell'attuale situazione congiunturale, la nostra produzione made-in-Italy abbia maggiori chance competitive. La conferma viene dal fatto che anche nelle importazioni c'è una crescita del prezzo medio unitario: è il segnale che anche il mercato interno richiede oggi una maggiore qualità." Analogamente, l’analisi per area geografica evidenzia andamenti contrastanti: pesanti flessioni in volume (accompagnate da cali più contenuti in termini di valore) si sono registrate nei principali Paesi industrializzati, che vivono ormai un clima depressivo dei consumi in generale: Germania (-16,3% in quantità) e Francia (-14%, con però un +2,4% in valore), ma anche Regno Unito (-25,3%) e soprattutto USA (-24,2%). Trend favorevoli hanno invece caratterizzato le vendite in Spagna e Svizzera (+12% in volume per entrambe), in Grecia (+10%) e nei Paesi dell’Est Europa e della CSI, sempre trainati dalla Russia (+11,7% in quantità e +27,3% in valore), confermatasi il nostro quarto mercato di destinazione in valore. I dati territoriali confermano andamenti differenziati anche per distretti: le esportazioni riferite al settore calzaturiero (calzature e parti di calzature) e ai primi 9 mesi dell'anno (i dati regionali sono trimestrali) mostrano tassi positivi per le esportazioni in valore di Lombardia (+15,2%), Veneto (+8,9%), Emilia Romagna (+20,5%), mentre risultano più penalizzate le imprese di Toscana (-9,6%), Marche (-1,2%) e Puglia (-16,9%) "Comunque – prosegue il presidente di ANCI - il saldo commerciale rimane attivo per 2,7 miliardi di euro, con un incoraggiante aumento del 7,1%. Le esportazioni, nonostante il difficile scenario internazionale, crescono più velocemente delle importazioni. Si tratta di una buona notizia per due motivi: la nostra bilancia dei pagamenti nonostante l'euro forte rimane in attivo e in crescita, mentre altri paesi oggi devono ricorrere a svalutazioni per poter sostenere l'export. In secondo luogo, oggi più che mai il nostro Paese ha bisogno di mantenere basso il livello di indebitamento, produrre ricchezza più di quella che consuma. Per questa ragione il nostro sforzo come Associazione si concentrerà nel supporto alle imprese nella loro promozione internazionale e nell'approccio ai mercati con maggiori potenzialità". Per la domanda interna i dati mostrano una contrazione non trascurabile degli acquisti delle famiglie nei primi 8 mesi dell’anno (-3,7% in quantità e -4,2% in termini di spesa) e le importazioni subiscono un calo più che proporzionale in volume (-10,2%). Solo il sensibile incremento dei prezzi medi (+10,8%) permette ai valori importati di contenere la riduzione in termini monetari (-0,5%). In questo quadro, tracciare una tendenza per il breve-medio termine risulta molto difficile, anche perché l'andamento congiunturale e quindi il sentiment delle imprese rimane fortemente condizionato dall'aggiornamento, settimanale, se non quotidiano, sugli indicatori economici mondiali. Per ora il portafoglio ordini degli ultimi mesi dell'anno sembra ricalcare le stesse dinamiche dei primi 9 mesi: in un contesto negativo ci sono mercati che soffrono, altri che tengono, altri che sorprendentemente si mantengono positivi. Alcuni importanti mercati come Germania (-6,8%), USA (-5,7%) e Giappone (-9,4%) mostrano campagne di raccolta ordini deludenti, mentre il mercato italiano indica solo una moderata riduzione (-1%). Più preoccupante la frenata della Russia (-4%), che getta in prospettiva qualche ombra anche per il mercato più vitale degli ultimi anni, mentre il portafoglio ordini relativo agli altri mercati mondiali (+4,5%) appare in crescita. Sulle prospettive incide anche la stretta creditizia che, secondo il 50% degli intervistati, si farà sentire anche sul settore calzaturiero. "I segnali che riceviamo dalle imprese rivelano che l'accesso al credito peggiorerà – sottolinea ancora Vito Artioli. Tuttavia, le imprese famigliari e di distretto hanno un vantaggio nei confronti di aziende organizzativamente più complesse perché c'è una totale identificazione tra impresa ed imprenditore. Ciò può rappresentare un limite alla crescita nei momenti di espansione, ma anche una garanzia nei momenti di difficoltà. È invece preoccupante la situazione relativa alla disponibilità dei buyer stranieri che, soprattutto in alcuni paesi, stanno iniziando ad avere difficoltà nell’onorare ordinativi già effettuati". "Siamo consapevoli che, nonostante tutte le informazioni macro e micro economiche di cui disponiamo, questo sia un momento particolarmente difficile da interpretare per le imprese – conclude il presidente di ANCI. Per questa ragione abbiamo deciso, quest'anno, di introdurre un nuovo appuntamento attraverso il quale fare informazione economica sul settore in senso ampio. A metà febbraio a Roma sarà organizzato un momento di riflessione sulla competitività del settore che sarà l'occasione per misurarne il polso nelle prime settimane del 2009, un appuntamento che in questo scenario competitivo risulterà quanto mai importante".
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| ANCI 21.01.09 | |||||
587 |
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22.01.09 |
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Yet the customary economic survey conducted by the Research Office of ANCI, the National Association of Italian Footwear Manufacturers, has not reported a situation that is completely jeopardised, although there has unquestionably been a deterioration in the economic scenario with respect to the first months of the year and, above all, the fairly good results of 2007. Nevertheless, the sector is not yet facing a generalised crisis. "Our situation is worrying, just like that of all other manufacturing sectors," comments ANCI president Vito Artioli. In fact, the footwear industry is dealing with an aggravating circumstance, i.e. that this crisis comes on the heels of an extended period of economic hardship, which companies have had to manage by making great sacrifices in recent years. However, today we are facing something else: not only a crisis in the competitiveness of our products, generated by the artificial advantages of cost and production conditions enjoyed by Asian countries, but a generalised economic crisis that will be felt by all. I am convinced that our companies will fare better than others, conditions being equal, because they have already had to face difficult moments." Therefore, while the ANCI survey has revealed a worsening economic outlook, it also shows uneven trends differentiated by price segments, districts and end markets. For the sample of companies that were interviewed, footwear production in the first 9 months of 2008 dropped off significantly in volume (-6.1%), showing a clear-cut decline in the third quarter: the previous survey for the first quarter in fact showed a decrease of 3.4%. Nevertheless, it is significant that, in the face of these dynamics and a low inflation rate, prices have nevertheless gone up by 1.6% on the domestic market and 2.7% on the foreign market, thus bringing the drop in production, measured in value, to 3.9%. Among the operators who were interviewed, 60% of those who answered instead noted a decrease in quantity, as opposed to 18% of those contacted who indicated an increase in output volume compared to the same period the previous year and 22% who reported essentially stable figures. The same ratio (60% vs. 40%) between pessimists and optimists can be found regarding forecasts for the first half of 2009: there is an increase in the number of companies expecting stability and a drop in those that have indicated an increase, but the balance between optimists and pessimists remains the same. "As we had already predicted at the beginning of the year, we are in a situation in which the most inadequate production factor is confidence," notes Artioli. "There is a lack of confidence among those working in the sector as well as among consumers. Therefore, we are facing a moment in which it is difficult to commit ourselves to making forecasts and propose optimism. However, today the sector is stronger than it was several years ago and the good results attained on certain markets are a sign. Therefore, we need to concentrate on our business because this moment brings difficulties, but it also opens up new opportunities." The official ISTAT figures for commercial trade, available for the first 8 months of 2008, confirm a worrying picture that is getting worse, but also a scenario that is complex to interpret. Exports demonstrate that the moment is not positive, but the value figure for the first eight months of the year, in which the sting of the crisis was not fully incorporated, is positive, with 3.5% growth for a total of approximately 5 billion euros. The growth of exports in value has been backed by a 12.7% increase in average price, offsetting the decrease in exported volumes, which was especially significant (-8.2%) for a total of 163.9 million pairs (14.6 million fewer than the same period the previous year).
Likewise, analysis by geographical area also shows contrasting trends. Significant drops in volume (accompanied by more modest decreases in value) have been posted in the main industrialised countries, which are now experiencing a depressed climate in general consumption: Germany (-16.3% in quantity) and France (-14%, but with +2.4% in value), but also the United Kingdom (-25.3%) and, above all, the United States (-24.2%). Favourable trends have instead characterised sales in Spain and Switzerland (+12% in volume for both), Greece (+10%), and Eastern Europe and the CIS countries, again driven by Russia (+11.7% in quantity and +27.3% in value), confirming it as our fourth most important end market in terms of value. Territorial figures have also confirmed differentiated trends as far as districts are concerned: exports for the footwear sector (shoes and shoe parts) for the first 9 months of the year (regional figures are quarterly) show positive rates in terms of value for Lombardy (+15.2%), Veneto (+8,9%) and Emilia-Romagna (+20.5%), whereas the most penalised companies were in Tuscany (-9.6%), Marche (-1.2%) and Puglia (-16.9%). "In any case," continues the president of ANCI, "the trade balance remains positive by 2.7 billion euros, with an encouraging increase of 7.1%. Despite the difficult international scenario, exports are growing faster than imports. This is good news for two reasons: even though the euro is strong, our balance of payments is positive and growing, whereas other countries must now resort to devaluation in order to support exports. Secondly, today more than ever our country needs to keep the level of indebtedness down, to produce more wealth than what it consumes. As a result, our efforts as an association will focus on supporting businesses with international promotion and an approach to markets with the greatest potential."
So far, the order book for the last months of the year seems to show the same dynamics as the first 9 months: in a negative context there are markets that suffer, others that remain steady and still others that, surprisingly, have remained positive. Several important markets such as Germany (-6.8%), the United States (-5.7%) and Japan (-9.4%) have shown disappointing order campaigns, whereas the Italian market indicates only a moderate decrease (-1%). More worrying is the slowdown in Russia (-4%), which casts a shadow on the outlook even for the most vital market of recent years, whereas the order book for other world markets (+4.5%) seems to be growing. The credit crunch – which 50% of those interviewed think will affect the footwear sector as well – has also taken its toll on outlooks. "The signals we have received from companies show that access to credit will get worse," Artioli emphasises. "Nevertheless, family and district businesses have an advantage over companies that, on an organisational level, are more complex, because there is complete identification between business and entrepreneur. This can represent a limit to growth during moments of expansion, but also a guarantee in moments of difficulty. Instead, there is a worrying situation regarding the available credit of foreign buyers who, above all in certain countries, are starting to have problems honouring the orders that have already been placed."
"We are aware that, in spite of all the microeconomic and macroeconomic
information we have, this is an especially difficult moment for businesses
to interpret," concludes the president of ANCI. Therefore, this
year we have decided to introduce a new appointment through which we
can provide broad economic information on the sector. In the middle
of February, we will hold a meeting in Rome to reflect on the sector’s
competitiveness, and this will be an opportunity to feel its ‘pulse’
in the early weeks of 2009, a rendezvous that will be more important
than ever in this economic scenario." |
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| ANCI 21.01.09 | |||||
574 |
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19.01.09 |
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| Source Anci 13.01.09 | |||||
573 |
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19.01.09 |
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“Siamo
molto soddisfatti dell’incontro con il presidente Lula, soprattutto
perché ANCI è stata l’unica associazione di settore,
oltre naturalmente ad Abicalçados, ad incontrare il presidente
nell’ambito di Couromoda - dichiara Vito Artioli, presidente ANCI.
Lula si è dichiarato molto interessato alle problematiche trattate,
tenuto conto dell’importanza del settore calzaturiero brasiliano
che, comprendendo tutta la filiera produttiva e distributiva, impiega
circa un milione di addetti. L’attenzione del presidente lascia
ben sperare per lo sviluppo degli accordi che noi auspichiamo tra UE
e MERCOSUR in materia di dazi doganali”. “Il Brasile rappresenta la nuova sfida per l’export e la futura crescita distributiva delle imprese della calzatura di alta gamma made in Italy - prosegue Vito Artioli, presidente ANCI. Occorre innanzitutto lavorare concretamente per abbattere il tetto dei dazi di import al 35%, creando un contesto che permetta l’ingresso della calzatura italiana nel mercato brasiliano senza difficoltà. In questo senso è stato molto positivo l’incontro con il presidente del Brasile”. Le relazioni bilaterali fra Unione Europea e MERCOSUR potranno essere costruite anche a cominciare dai rapporti fra Italia e Brasile, che confermano dunque il loro forte legame già rinsaldato grazie alla lettera di intenti per il miglioramento delle relazioni commerciali, siglata nel luglio 2008 da Andrea Brotini, vice presidente ANCI con delega CEC, la Confederazione Europea dell’Industria della Calzatura, e da Milton Cardoso, presidente di Abicalçados e controfirmata dal Ministro del Commercio Estero Brasiliano, Jorge. Sono proseguiti anche oggi i colloqui tra ANCI e Abicalçados. Si è deciso infatti di intraprendere un lavoro relativo alle verifiche giuridiche ed è stato fissato nel contesto della manifestazione un appuntamento di aggiornamento che si terrà in Italia nelle prossime settimane. Per i prossimi mesi ANCI prevede anche di incontrare i rappresentanti della federazione argentina di settore come prossimo referente con cui interagire sugli stessi temi.
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| Source Anci 13.01.09 | |||||
559 |
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07.01.09 |
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The Garments area – also interested in joint ventures with Brazilian companies – presents brands like Stone Island, Pignatelli Pap, Pignatelli Cerimonia, Caporea, Kathleen Madden, I Pinco Pallino 1950, I Pinco Pallino, Mac’s, I Pinco Pallino Baby, Brescianai, Imelde & Stefano Cavalleri and Alfredo Pria 1824. The participation of the Italian brands in COUROMODA is a promotion of the Italian Institute of Foreign Trade – ICE (agency of the Italian government connected to the Ministry of Economic Development of Italy), jointly with the Italian Association of the Shoe Industries - ANCI and the Institute Moda Italia (EMI). According to data from the Ministry of Development, Industry and Foreign Trade, from January to October 2008 Italy sold to Brazil 60 thousand pairs of shoes, for US$ 7 million, at an average price of US$ 116. Booth
Made in Italy – Shoes & Garments at Couromoda 2009: Aisle
B/C 35/38
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| Source Couromoda 06.01.09 | |||||
555 |
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La
Piattaforma, che al suo interno raccoglie idee e partecipazioni provenienti
da aziende, centri di ricerca, associazioni e altri stakeholder, intende
proporre alcune linee guida per traghettare l’industria calzaturiera
europea verso un’economia basata sulla conoscenza, per rafforzare
ulteriormente la leadership che il settore gode nella produzione di
calzature ad alto valore aggiunto. |
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| Source ANCI 10.12.08 |
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554 |
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The
Platform brings together ideas and participation from companies, research
centres, associations and other stakeholders and aims to propose guidelines
to steer the European footwear industry toward a knowledge-based economy
in order to further bolster the leadership that the sector enjoys
in high added value footwear production. |
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| Source ANCI 10.12.08 |
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551 |
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“The worldwide footwear market is worth approximately 160 billion euros and grows at an annual rate of about 2%,” noted ANCI president Vito Artioli. “The data from the study conducted for our Association show that our aggregate share is about 12%, but in reality this figure represents an average of very different situations, ranging from 25% for the European market to just 3% for the Asian market. Therefore, our product is very competitive and is positioned chiefly in the high-end and luxury segments, which are destined to grow more over the long term. Nevertheless, the current selection of markets in which we are present is what poses challenges for us: our strength on mature markets risks penalising us if we are unable to make the most of the growth of emerging markets, which are increasingly after high-quality products, as well as retail services and the perception of purchasing something truly exclusive.” The research, presented today, 15 November, at the Palazzo Ducale in Lucca, clearly reveals that the footwear market will not increase much in terms of overall growth (the average annual growth rate will be about 2-3%) and that much of this growth will take place above all in three areas: Asia, Latin America and North Africa/Middle East. The positive aspect for Italian companies is the fact that, in principle, their product specialisation is suitable for the market scenario sketched out by the research: in 2012 the world market will reach approximately 180 billion euros, but the most interesting growth rates will be generated above all by the luxury and high-end segments. Over the next five years, the luxury market (20 billion euros worldwide) will show a growth rate of about 6% per annum, whereas in the high-end segment it will be 3% (28 billion euros), against a growth of 1% in the medium range (57 billion euros) and 2.5% in the inexpensive range (53 billion euros). Artioli stated, “Our price positioning and the quality of our product put us in an ideal position to exploit the opportunities of the coming years. Nevertheless, neither the competitiveness nor the quality of our footwear can be sufficient to maintain this leadership in our segment. Instead, we need to face the fact that our commercial rootedness is in the markets that have been the most important so far, but that will show less long-term growth. Over the next five years, the Asian area will grow by 5%, but North Africa/Middle East will see a growth rate of 7%. We need to think about these figures because in order to enter these markets today, simply offering a good product is not enough. We need to know the characteristics of the different targets, have the right local distribution partners, identify a specific and recognisable format, and define a specific position with respect to the competition, but we also need to recruit the right internal human resources to face new challenges.” The
research commissioned by ANCI also identified some of the characteristics
of the most promising markets and defined a strategic profile for
each of them. The pattern that has been delineated allows us to sketch
out an initial approach to the market while also underscoring the
potential difficulties that must be faced. “Russia has been one of our objectives for years and the work done by the Association in promotional terms has bolstered the success of Italian companies,” Artioli pointed out. “Consumption, which is quite polarised between the high and low segments in terms of purchase choices, is a point in our favour, because customers show great attention to product quality and want Italian style. But the great achievement of the Russian market, which is expected to grow at an average rate of 15% over the next five years, can be repeated in other markets that, albeit with different characteristics, nevertheless offer excellent opportunities.” The Middle East continues to be an area with strong growth potential: the advent of shopping malls has promoted the growing presence of evolved distribution and organised chains, also in relation to the powerful increase in tourism. In Asia, the growth of the Indian and Chinese markets continues to be interesting, although our exports to this market are still very limited so far. The rise of new-generation businesspeople who are more sensitive to Western tastes and the growth rates predicted for the coming years make India potentially one of the most interesting markets. However, there is no lack of stimulating prospects on mature markets, above all in the niches that reward not only quality and fashion content, but also customer service and a marketing concept that constantly listens to the buyer. In Europe and the United States there are plenty of market spaces for companies that are capable of adopting the right mix of product, assortment, price, image/brand and service level, although we must note that at this point we can make only partial assessments of the repercussions of the recent crises in these marketplaces. “The goal of the picture we have sketched out is not to provide universal solutions,” noted Vito Artioli, “but rather to try to define the advantages and disadvantages in tackling certain markets as part of a new internationalisation strategy, an approach that Italian footwear manufacturers can no longer put off. One thing is certain: many of these countries are closed to imports due to very high customs or quotas, for example India, Brazil and Japan. Therefore we must work on two aspects. First we must study the countries well and the ways to deal with them, but at the same time we must demand reciprocal market access. The action that the Association has undertaken to request antidumping duties, mandatory origin labelling in Europe and reciprocity in tariff and non-tariff barriers is absolutely essential in order to achieve this. Likewise, it is important that policies for promotion on foreign markets be overhauled. We need to concentrate resources on significant projects and on those sectors – and footwear is one of them – that have demonstrated an ability to optimise public funds to attain great success in terms of exports.” Artioli continued, “The study has also highlighted the fact that our footwear industry still has a great deal of potential that can be exploited. However, companies – first and foremost, and with the collaboration of government institutions – as well as associations and trade-show companies must put forward strategies designed to launch modern internationalisation initiatives. This is a new phase that requires greater resources, growing collaboration and a more favourable context than those of the past. Our future and the future of Italy’s manufacturing industry, and thus our economy, depend on this new internationalisation pact. Furthermore, stopgap measures supporting banks and the finance industry are important and necessary in order to deal with the current financial crisis, as long as they have a direct impact on businesses. As an Association, we will assist entrepreneurs with the support of proactive initiatives, but also by providing strategic orientation instruments. As part of “Industria 2015”, the bill on the new industrial policy, we intend to present a research and innovation project in order to improve the real-time collection of market data, develop rapid prototyping and the logistics chain, and fine-tune new technological solutions.” Artioli concluded by saying, “In the new internationalisation pact, we must equip ourselves with resources that are different also on a qualitative level. First of all, we must face the critical aspects of entrepreneurship and pinpoint initiatives that will permit aggregation and make it possible to develop common projects. At the same time, it is evident that for this challenge we also need human resources that can stimulate strategies and allow us to implement these projects. Consequently, training must continue to play an important role and promote systemic measures on a national level, involving the Association and labour unions. It is also important to focus on European training projects in order to improve synergy among the businesses of our continent. It is obvious that training cannot be limited to labour but must increasingly involve top executives, managers and entrepreneurs, as we are convinced that, on a company level, the growth process can truly improve efficiency only if all players are involved.”
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| Source ANCI 11.12.08 |
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550 |
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Moderator Speakers
DIEGO
DOLCINI GIANFRANCO
FABI FABIO
FUSCO SHAWN
PEAN ROBERTO
RIGHI ENRICO
VALDANI |
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| Source ANCI 11.12.08 |
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548 |
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I would like to emphasise an initial indication from this report: the worldwide footwear industry is solid and will grow again in the near future, a period in which Italian companies must consolidate and expand their presence. In this scenario businesses must unquestionably become reorganised and restructured, as they have also done in the past, but our association is and will increasingly be at their side. The ISTAT commerce figures for the first seven months of 2008 show a decrease of 7.1% in volume compared to the same period in 2007, but a 5.5% increase in value as a result of a significant increase in average prices, which have risen by 13.5%. Nevertheless, while this figure is somewhat comforting with respect to the immediate past, it cannot give us an optimistic outlook with respect to a difficult present and an uncertain future. A financial crisis of this scope was unexpected, even though some are now hurrying to say exactly the opposite. At the same time, it is during times like these that it is absolutely essential to keep steering straight ahead. We expect enormous efforts from companies in terms of modernisation and repositioning on markets. We must confirm the necessary continuation of a process of raising quality, creativity and added value: a process that continues to distinguish the sector in all its elements. Nevertheless, these qualitatively positive elements will be unable to prevent a significant slowdown – at least throughout 2009 – before the hoped-for recovery occurs. The profound financial crisis that is under way, for which there is no short-term prospect, will unquestionably have an impact – one that, today, cannot be quantified but that can also be violent – on the real economy, consumer buying power and, more generally, disposable income. These difficulties have already been reported to us by our businesses, in particular those that are working in the countries of the Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS), from which we have received worrying signals also from some of the buyers, who are facing difficulties in relation to the credit industry. Therefore, the first need is to support export credits and their guarantees, but there must also be financial support for businesses. The powerful message that we intend to launch here is that government intervention must be conceived in relation to the credit system, but its goal must be to help the business system. Support for banks must immediately be translated into support for the production system. We need intervention as a stopgap for the situation and as a way to breathe new life into businesses. At the same time, however, it is essential to have an overall plan, a well-defined path that we can trace thanks to the information we received today from Bain: the identification of markets and their strategies; a rapport with the various levels of distribution; product, research and innovation policies; and the ability to compete. The last two factors come into play in the national project for the footwear sector that we are presenting to the Ministry of Economic Development as part of the bill for the new industrial policy titled “Industria 2015”. Business intelligence, rapid prototyping, improvement of the logistical chain and new technological solutions represent the challenge for our businesses. Training must also continue to play an important role, with systemic measures on a national level involving our Association and labour unions. Together. It is also important to focus on European training projects in order to improve synergy among the businesses of our continent. It is obvious that training cannot be limited to labour but must also involve top executives, managers and entrepreneurs, as we are convinced that, on a company level, the growth process can truly improve efficiency only if all players are involved. And ANCI will dedicate growing resources to training, not only on national level but also in collaboration with local industrial districts. However, we must have immense courage and look at the overall scenario, which is also composed of the growing number of new localisations of production outside the country and, more generally, the evolution of globalisation. Regardless of the choices they might make, businesses must not be bolstered surreptitiously nor demonised hypocritically. The only key that must guide individual companies and the sector as a whole is compatibility with specific results, a sense of balance towards the employment levels that are effectively possible, and – naturally – the legitimate use of available public resources. We must adopt industrial, commercial and fiscal policies that will allow the sector, as a whole, to remain chiefly in Italy and Europe, avoiding indiscriminate dismantling of this industry with an eye to controlled globalisation. It is essential to maintain the major positive contribution that, through exports, the sector continues to ensure to the trade balance and the problems of absorbing employment. All of this must be achieved with new and more modern paths of presence around the world through far more articulated and faster methods. One of the top priorities for a sector devoted to export and internationalisation – like ours – also involves pursuing and establishing new and more effective rules, as well as international trade that will guarantee transparency, fairness and symmetrical competition. For example, we are working towards this on a long-term project that will lead to an equalisation of customs charges with Mercosur – with Brazil leading the way – and in January we will be meeting with President Lula during our coordinated attendance at the Couromoda exhibition. We have recently also made overtures towards the Japanese Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry to discuss import quotas, but there is still evident protectionism and situations that are no longer justifiable today. Brazil, Japan, Russia, China and India: these are the markets that the Bain study has indicated as those in which we must compete – not in the distant future, but immediately. However, true competition is not possible if it does not adhere to shared and equitable rules. In short, these are the reflections that have inspired us to ask for the implementation of anti-dumping procedures against China and Vietnam, and we feel that dissent motivated by legitimate individual corporate interests is absolutely natural. I would like to recall, however, that the only thing that ANCI has done – in agreement with the European Confederation of the Footwear Industry (CEC) and other national federations working in the sector – is to fulfil its mandate correctly, a mandate that has been underscored time and again by its decision-making bodies. We have never considered supplementary customs fees to be a solution, nor can they replace reciprocity and fairness on the part of the competition. They are temporary instruments that partially offset the acknowledged lack of reciprocity and the confirmed existence of unfair competition. Lastly, with regard to the European regulation for a mandatory “made in” label, I would like to note that, through an initiative of which ANCI has been a strategic leader and an proactive promoter, all the interested categories have moved in harmony with the Confederation of Italian Industry, which is undertaking formal and very committed steps with the government. As a result, the general consensus attained so far will be followed by solid initiatives that will finally lead to the vote of the EU Council of Ministers on this proposal. ANCI has also conducted lobbying actions along these lines in other European countries with a strong tradition of footwear manufacture. Needless to say, I am well aware that I have not touched on all the issues or activities in which ANCI is involved on a daily basis. However, we intend to take stock of the sector as part of a new format that we will inaugurate in Rome in February, an initiative we hope will gradually become a key rendezvous for the world of politics, economics and the press. I would like to thank you for your attention and I hope that this convention will be immensely profitable for you |
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| Source ANCI 11.12.08
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465 |
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Russia and countries from the ex- Soviet Republic, but also Japan, Northern Europe, Spain and Greece are the countries that stood out for being the main areas of origin of the 21,150 foreign agents that visited MICAM. “With this edition”, commented the President of the National Association of Italian Footwear Manufacturers, Vito Artioli, “MICAM confirms itself as the world’s most important appointment dedicated to the footwear business. If we look at the numbers that refer to the visitors, in fact, we see that the slight decline compared to last year is largely counterbalanced by the quality of the buyers that once again have chosen our exhibition to plan their order packages and ensure themselves the collections that will be the next seasons’ musts”. “In a moment that is certainly not easy for our sector and difficult for the international markets”, underlines again the President Artioli, “the presence of foreign buyers is a reflection of the importance of this exhibition. Even more so if we consider that it was held from Wednesday to Saturday, automatically generating a selection of buyers that favour quality over quantity - quantity however that remains completely respectable and satisfying. We are the sector’s last exhibition in the calendar, a fact that has definitely rewarded us and the companies have closed the season here with a positive feeling”. The great protagonists of MICAM were the 1,672 exhibiting companies, of which 574 were foreign, with their collections for fashionable footwear for men, women and children. Linked by the common thread of quality and high value added in terms of creativity and research, MICAM ShoEvent’s proposals have dictated the trends for the Spring-Summer 2009 season.
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| Source ANCI 22.09.08
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464 |
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Russia
e paesi dell’ex Repubblica Sovietica, ma anche Giappone, Nord
Europa, Spagna e Grecia sono i paesi che si sono distinti come le
maggiori aree di provenienza dei 21.150 operatori stranieri che hanno
visitato MICAM. “In un momento di certo non facile per il nostro settore e di difficoltà per i mercati internazionali – sottolinea ancora il presidente Artioli – la presenza dei compratori stranieri è lo specchio dell’importanza di questo momento fieristico. A maggior ragione se consideriamo il posizionamento su giornate che vanno dal mercoledì al sabato, che ha generato automaticamente una selezione dei buyer a favore della qualità piuttosto che della quantità, che resta comunque assolutamente ragguardevole e soddisfacente. Siamo l’ultima fiera di settore nel calendario, questo ci ha sicuramente premiati e le aziende hanno chiuso qui la stagione di vendita con un sentiment positivo”. Grandi protagoniste delle giornate di MICAM le 1.672 aziende espositrici, di cui 574 straniere, con le loro collezioni per la moda della calzatura dedicate all’uomo, alla donna o al bambino. Legate dal fil rouge della qualità e dell’alto valore aggiunto in termini di creatività e ricerca, le proposte di MICAM ShoEvent hanno dettato le tendenze per la primavera-estate 2009. |
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Source ANCI 22.09.08
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Philip
Clark |
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